Plants

Air plants, also known as Tillandsia, are some of the quirkiest and most captivating houseplants you can own. They do not grow in soil. Instead, they attach to things like trees or rocks in their native tropical environments and absorb moisture and nutrients from the air using tiny structures on their leaves called trichomes. Those trichomes give air plants a fuzzy or silvery look and are essential to their survival. While air plants do produce roots, the roots do not trap water. They only anchor the plants to surfaces like bark or crevices.

Air plants Aren’t That Easy

Despite what some blogs or Pinterest posts say, air plants are not maintenance free, especially in places where the air gets very dry, like Alberta. They do not survive on neglect, aesthetic placement, or good intentions. Trust me, I’ve tried. The main problems are overwatering, poor air circulation, and keeping them sealed in closed containers without ventilation or humidity. Any of those can lead to trouble. It can take some trial and error to figure out what works best for you, but hopefully some of these tips will help!

Watering Tips

Air plants still need water, just not from the soil. There are a couple of options here.

General Watering Tips:

Misting:

• In dry climates (such as Alberta, where all seasons happen before lunchtime) mist every two to three days with distilled or rainwater. Tap water can contain chlorine and minerals that harm the trichomes, so it is better to avoid it. (I’ve heard it: “But my airplant is doing great since I got it 6 months ago!” Some deaths are longer than others. My oldest airplant I’ve had for 6 years – please trust me, tap water is a slow death.)
• Soaking: Once a week give or take**, give them a 20 to 30 minute soak. Afterwards, shake off excess water and place them upside down on a towel in a bright, well ventilated spot to dry. Make sure they are completely dry within four hours. If they stay damp for too long, they can rot.
  
  ** this advice is contingent on how the plant is doing. If it looks robust, healthy, plump, it can probably go a few more days or even another week. This usually happens during moist rainy seasons where the air is more humid. If you keep you airplant in a humid cabinet you might even be able to skip this step. It’s really trial and error. 

Handle bulbous varieties with extra care!

Some air plants do not tolerate soaking well, especially those with bulbous or swollen bases. These include:

• T. xerographica, which has large curly silvery leaves

• Bulb base types, such as:

  • T. bulbosa, with tentacle like leaves and a hollow base

  • T. butzii, with spotty leaves and a narrow neck

  • T. caput-medusae, with a curly Medusa like appearance

  • T. pseudobaileyi, with long leaves and a rounded base

  • T. seleriana, with a thick, fuzzy build and round base

These types are prone to rot if water gets trapped. Stick to misting or a quick rinse, and allow them to dry thoroughly right away. If a plant’s base feels squishy or sponge like, reduce watering and increase airflow. A healthy base should feel firm and dry quickly.

Light & Airflow

• • Lighting: Bright, indirect light is best. A spot near a window is ideal. Avoid direct sun unless the plant is already used to it.

  • Airflow: Fresh air is crucial. Sealed terrariums can trap humidity and encourage mold or rot. If your display is enclosed, remove the lid regularly or add a small fan to keep air circulating. Alternatively, add a mini USB fan for circulation. I use these in the small enclosures (note: I’m not an affiliate and do NOT earn income from links!)

Temperature & Humidity

• Air plants prefer temperatures above 10 C, and humidity levels above 50 percent are best. In Alberta’s dry winters, consider keeping them in a humid cabinet, running a humidifier nearby, or placing a shallow dish of water near their display. Just make sure things do not get too wet.

Fertilizing

• You do not need to fertilize to keep air plants alive, but fertilizing can help them bloom and produce pups. During the growing season, use a bromeliad, orchid, or air plant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month.

Fun Facts About Air Plants

• Air plants belong to the same bromeliad family as pineapples.

• Most bloom once, produce pups (baby air plants), and then gradually die.

• Some, like T. bulbosa, brighten up or change color when they bloom.

• They absorb airborne pollutants, so they are both pretty and functional.

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TL;DR Quick Care Summary

• • Mist every two to three days; soak some types weekly

  • Use distilled or rainwater only

  • Ensure they dry fully after watering

  • Avoid soaking bulbous types

  • Give them bright, indirect light and good airflow

  • Boost humidity if your air is dry

  • Avoid enclosed containers without ventilation

  • Remember, they literally need air (I can’t stress this one enough!)

Ready to give it a try? You can purchase them here! Note: these are examples of the kinds you’ll be getting. If you’d like to pick specific types, you can see a small selection at Crescent Moon Curio Shoppe in Spruce Grove, or message me and I’ll be happy to show you what’s available!

 

Tiny Terrors for Houseplants and Gardens

Spider mites are a common pest for both houseplants and garden plants, thriving in warm, dry conditions. These tiny arachnids feed on plant sap, causing yellowing, stippling, and eventually leaf drop if left unchecked. Their rapid reproduction rate makes them a formidable foe, but understanding prevention and control methods can help keep them in check.

How to Identify Spider Mites

• Tiny, barely visible pests (often reddish or pale in color).
• Fine webbing on leaves and stems, especially in severe infestations.
• Yellowing, speckled, or curling leaves.
• Increased damage in hot, dry environments.

Prevention: Your First Line of Defense

Pests are inevitable, but proactive care can prevent major infestations. Here are key steps to keep spider mites at bay:

• Increase Humidity: Mites prefer dry conditions, so misting your plants or using a humidifier can make your space less hospitable.
• Regularly Inspect Plants: Check the undersides of leaves and new growth, especially during warm seasons.
• Quarantine New Plants: Always isolate new additions to your plant collection for at least two weeks to prevent hidden mites from spreading.
• Keep Plants Healthy: Stressed plants attract pests. Ensure proper watering, lighting, and nutrition.

Treatment: How to Get Rid of Spider Mites

If you notice an infestation, act quickly to minimize damage:

1. Rinse and Isolate – Spray the plant with water to dislodge mites, and separate it from other plants.
2. Apply Beneficial Predators – Predatory mites like Anystis baccarum (Crazee Mites) are a natural control method, feeding on spider mites and other pests​
3. Use Insecticidal Soap or Neem Oil – Apply these treatments every few days, ensuring thorough leaf coverage.
4. Prune Severely Infested Areas – If mites have heavily damaged certain leaves, remove them to reduce their numbers.
5. Monitor and Reapply – Even after treatment, continue checking plants regularly to prevent reinfestation.

The Role of Beneficial Insects

Introducing predatory mites like Anystis baccarum can be an effective long-term solution. These mites consume spider mites at all life stages, helping to keep populations under control​

By staying vigilant and using a mix of preventative and active treatments, you can manage spider mites without resorting to harsh chemicals. Consistent plant care and early intervention will keep your indoor jungle thriving!

Fungus gnats are a common nuisance in horticulture and indoor gardening, often thriving in moist soil and organic matter. Although they pose minimal direct threat to healthy plants, their larvae can damage roots, leading to stunted growth and reduced plant vigor. Fortunately, biological control using natural predators such as Stratiolaelaps scimitus (formerly Hypoaspis miles) and Atheta coriaria (formerly Dalotia coriaria) offers an effective, eco-friendly solution.

Understanding Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats belong to the Sciaridae family and are small, mosquito-like insects. Adult fungus gnats are usually 2-4 mm long, with long legs, delicate wings, and a preference for damp environments. While the adults are mostly a cosmetic issue, their larvae feed on decaying organic matter and fine roots. High infestations can cause root damage, yellowing leaves, and even plant death.

Biological Control with Stratiolaelaps (Hypoaspis)

Stratiolaelaps scimitus is a soil-dwelling predatory mite that naturally preys on fungus gnat larvae, thrips pupae, and other soil-dwelling pests. These mites are tiny, tan-colored, and highly mobile, actively seeking out and consuming pest larvae in the upper soil layers.

Key Benefits:

• Effective Larval Control: Stratiolaelaps mites target fungus gnat larvae before they mature into adults, breaking the life cycle.
• Broad-Spectrum Action: They also feed on other soil-dwelling pests, offering multi-pest control.
• Self-Sustaining Populations: Once established, these mites can reproduce in the soil, providing long-term pest management.

Application Tips:

• Timing: Introduce Stratiolaelaps early, ideally at the first sign of fungus gnat activity.
• Conditions: They thrive in moist soil but require good drainage. Avoid overwatering, as waterlogged conditions can harm them.
• Rates: Distribute 10-25 mites per square foot, ensuring even coverage across the growing area.

Biological Control with Atheta (Dalotia)

Atheta coriaria is a robust, soil-dwelling rove beetle that preys on fungus gnat larvae, shore flies, and other soil pests. These beetles are larger than Stratiolaelaps mites, dark brown in color, and extremely active, capable of covering large areas in search of prey.

Key Benefits:

• Versatile Predator: In addition to fungus gnats, Atheta beetles prey on various soil pests, enhancing their utility in integrated pest management (IPM) programs.
• Adaptability: They tolerate a wider range of conditions compared to Stratiolaelaps, including slightly drier soil.
• Mobility: Their ability to cover extensive ground makes them effective in large growing areas.

Application Tips:

• Release Timing: Deploy Atheta beetles at the first sign of fungus gnats or as a preventive measure.
• Habitat: Provide a layer of organic mulch or compost to create an optimal habitat for their activity.
• Rates: Introduce 5-10 beetles per square foot for effective control.

Integrated Use of Stratiolaelaps and Atheta

For comprehensive control, combining Stratiolaelaps scimitus and Atheta coriaria is highly effective. While Stratiolaelaps focuses on the upper soil layers, Atheta can penetrate deeper and move across larger areas. Together, they provide multi-layered protection against fungus gnats and other soil pests.

Implementation Strategy:

1. Preventive Deployment: Introduce both predators early in the growing cycle to prevent infestations.
2. Cultural Practices: Maintain proper irrigation, avoid overwatering, and use well-draining soil to reduce gnat breeding sites.
3. Monitoring: Use sticky traps to monitor adult gnat populations and assess the effectiveness of biological controls.

Why Choose Biological Control?

Using Stratiolaelaps scimitus and Atheta coriaria aligns with sustainable gardening practices by minimizing the need for chemical pesticides, which can harm beneficial organisms and the environment. Biological controls are safe for humans, pets, and plants, making them ideal for both commercial growers and home gardeners.

By incorporating these natural predators into your pest management strategy, you can effectively manage fungus gnats while promoting a healthier, more resilient growing environment.

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Meta: Control fungus gnats naturally with Stratiolaelaps mites & Atheta beetles. Eco-friendly pest solutions for healthy, thriving plants!